ISRA Newsletter
The official Newsletter of the International Star Riders Association
ŠISRA, 1999. Redistribution prohibited.
Volume 1. Number 2.

The L O N G   H A U L
                                                                        by Dave Barber
Note: This is a two part series on long distance travel. Part 1 explores the basics of what you need to ride a motorcycle both short AND long distance. This is information that is designed to be helpful for the novice rider, just getting started in the fast growing sport of motorcycling. I realized that there are gaps and omissions, but this is a large topic. My intent is to impart the knowledge gained by magazines, newsletters, ISRA and personal experience to those beginners.
 

Before you Begin:
Before you begin the L O N G - H A U L, or what we normally call Long Distance Riding, you really should have some experience under your belt riding a motorcycle. 1,200 mile on the odometer is enough for you to develop a close relationship with your bike. (This is for beginning cyclists, not re-entry riders or those who just purchased a new bike) This is important, because when your on the lonesome highway, no-one can hear you scream (unless you carry a cell phone, more about that later).

The second most important item is to check your bike shortly before a long trip. Check/change the oil. Check the fluid plugs, bolts, wires, bulbs, tires, spokes, fenders, seat... everything! Do this a two or three days before the big ride. That way, if you find something you can't fix, you can take it to the shop without missing the event or trip. The morning of the ride, you can do a visual "spot check" and feel somewhat confident that everything is okay.
 

Good Judgement:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from poor judgement. So it is written, so shall it be. My last long haul trip was the most miserable experience of my life. It was between April and May, while the weather was still volatile on the east coast. I expected some rain, maybe a thundercloud or two once in a while, but not the constant, freezing monsoon that was to be. Even thought I packed everything I thought I would need, the fact of the matter was, I should have just taken the car. (for more on this story, see "Rain Ride".)

 Anyway, you roll your dice and you take your chances. The moral of the story is:

 Know where you are going. Take maps and directions. Check the weather. Check for unforeseen events, like ballgames traffic, road construction or Holiday traffic. This can at least help eliminate A FEW of life's nasty surprises. Don't be afraid to brave the elements, but don't be afraid to sideline plans either if things look too "iffy".
 

Proper Gear: Boots, Socks, Gloves, Rain Suit, Helmet
You will need the proper gear. Some stuff you can't live without. Some stuff you shouldn't be caught without. Some stuff you don't really need, till you relay need it. Through all this, try to remember, cruising and touring is about leaving the kitchen sink where it belongs... at home. Not in your saddlebag. This becomes the art of obtaining a delicate balance. And believe me, the one thing you sacrifice will the THE ONE THING you will need on the trip. 

To decide what gear you need, you should assess what type of riding you are doing, how long and under what conditions. Let's start with the basics.

 Boots:
On any ride, wear riding boots of some type. Sneakers offer little to no protection around the ankles, an no protection along the calf. As far as a boot goes, some people like laces, some don't. Laces allow you to tuck your pants inside your boots without compressing your legs due to lack of room, however, they have been known to get caught in the shifter, or come undone and get caught up somewhere on the bike. Try Stompers Boots

While I'm on the subject of feet, I just went to the hiking/camping store and bought a set of waterproof socks. They are light, thin, and stow away easily in bags or some pocket. Nothing is more miserable than cold, wet feet, and leather boots leak. Or, you can buy more expensive leather boots that are rainproof. The more features you get in a boot, the more expensive they become. 
 
 

Gloves:
There are many types of riding gloves, and you should own at least two pair. 1) Thin, leather summer riding gloves and 2) a thick, insulated winter pair. I have also opted for a third pair that I carry with me, a set of waterproof/rainproof leather gloves. These work very well. I tried the slipovers that look like plastic mittens, but they are a pain to get on, hard to control the bike and look dorky. But, they work in a pinch. The only thing as miserable as cold, wet feet are cold, wet hands and fingers.
 

Rain Suits:
There are 2 types of rainsuits. Those that work, and those that don't. Of these two, there are two variations: One piece and two piece suits; all others. Guess what falls in which category?

 Two piece rain suits work well in all but heavy rains with high winds. They are easy to put on, you can opt to use the pants and not the jacket (or vice versa), and they fit over your clothes easy enough. However, they can leak at the midsection, as the wind forces water into separations and zippers.

 One piece rainsuits work the best. There are fewer seams (usually) to leak, there are no openings at the midsection, and with double and triple rainflaps inside the zippers, they seal out the elements the best, especially cold winds. They are a bit more difficult to get on, but not much more so. They stow away easily and are no more bulky than a two piece suits.

 Some people wear oil cloth long coats (like in the Western movies) with straps around the legs for bike riding. These will offer some protection while maintaining your "Desperado" status. You may buy cheap suits or Parkas at Wal-Mart, or substitute Bicycle rain suits if you wish, but they will not hold up to the winds generated by a motorcycle at speeds over 40 MPH for long. Whatever you do, you must pack at least one of these options, just in case. 

Helmets:
Choosing which helmet to use is crucial. A full face offers the absolute best protection (check for SNELL rating), then 3/4, 1/2 and Shorty. 
The absolute worse is the shorty "brain buckets" that many HD riders wear. They are neither SNELL nor DOT approved, have little or no insulation on the inside. For a great list on Makes, Models and Prices, try this website: THE HELMET SHOP

 Sometimes, I pack an extra helmet. I like to ride around and enjoy the scenery in an HJC Shorty Police Helmet (DOT approved) with the curtain off. Nothing compares to the feeling of freedom you get with an open face helmet.

However, If you plan on doing a lot of interstate travel at high speeds, or are planning a few days out, you may wish to arrive at your destination with a full face helmet. Between bugs, flying rocks, spraying fuel oil from semi trucks, 60 - 100 mph winds buffeting your face, and RAIN, you might just save yourself some misery. You can switch out later on the backroads, or not. The choice is yours. 

Also, get you a good "Doo Rag" to wear on the inside of your helmet. As well as keeping your tangled hair in order with your helmet off, it keeps grease, sweat and hair products off the inside of your helmet lining, so you won't have to wash or replace it so much 

One last note on full face helmets. I do suggest you install a Fog City shield on the inside of your visor. This eliminates fogging if it does rain on you, or gets cold. Also, Rainex is good for the outside to help keep the way clear. 'Nuff said. 
 

To Recap:
The basics are; Boots, Helmet (with eye protection), Gloves, Leather or Cordura Jacket. These are essential for safe motoring and protection on short, medium and long trips. However, what if you want to go on extended trips??

Coming Next Issue:
Part 2: Road Gear